

We rested a bit and finished the laundry before walking to the river for our Danube cruise on the Legende boats. By the time we were settled in the boat, it had started raining again, this time in earnest. The glass-covered boat afforded us protection from the elements during the hour-long cruise. Budapest is lovely at night, with its beautiful buildings all lit up and the shining lights reflected in the river. Even the lightning, thunder, and bursts of heavy rain added a piquant touch to the atmosphere. The video and narration accompanying the cruise was very informative, nicely complementing the nighttime views outside. They served us 2 drinks during the cruise, the first of which was a tall glass of champagne. Though it tasted good, I'm not much of a drinker and was only able to imbibe about a third of it. The rain had thankfully let up by the time we docked and disembarked, so we strolled along the embankment and enjoyed the view of Buda Castle across the river. Then we headed into Pest's town center in search of a late dinner. We finally found a restaurant as the rain started to come down again. We were seated upstairs, and because of the cold air wafting in, the waiter offered us blankets, which I found amusing. The restaurant was cute, and a small band playing lively folk music added to the charming ambiance. J. ordered a Hungarian salsa, and I had goulash and a cucumber salad. As we ate, it showered on and off, with occasional flashes of lightning that threw a startling wash of bright white outside the window. Our luck throughout the day finally ran out, as we were forced to run back to the apartment in the pouring rain. Never a dull moment on this trip!


When we found Gerbeaud's Confectionery, where we planned to celebrate the last night of our trip with decadent desserts, we also found more of the cute elephant statues that we'd been seeing around town. (The first, which resembled a lemon, was seen at Heroes' Square. The second, which was just on the other side of the square from Gerbeaud's, looked like a half-built brick house. Funnily enough, there was a cartoon wolf on one side of the elephant, troweling cement to lay on the next row of bricks. The third, in front of Gerbeaud's, was gray with geometric designs. Nearby, two more elephants stood next to a fountain. One was white with marble veins and an intricate design on its back. The other looked like a cake from Gerbeaud's. I affectionately named it "Tiramisu.") It turns out that these elephants are part of an initiative to help the homeless in Budapest. Eighty of these elephants, individually painted by various artists, schools, and students, are displayed throughout Budapest to call attention to the plight of the homeless. Eventually, the elephants will be auctioned off, and the proceeds will fund the renovation of homeless shelters in Budapest.
Throughout the day, I'd also been seeing Swedes everywhere. They stood out because they were all wearing their national colors of blue and yellow. Well, tons of them had gathered in the popular Vörösmarty square, where we found Gerbeaud's and the elephants. The spirited Swedes, decked in their unmistakable jerseys and waving banners, chanted and sang with vigor. Clearly, there was an important sporting event going on that night! It had been a long day, so we decided to go back to the apartment to rest a bit before coming out again. As we walked along the narrow street we took in the morning, we found it blocked by a bunch of policemen, all of whom were wearing protective armor. The sight was a bit unnerving, but we tried not to think too much about what this all meant. We turned and took another small street, finally emerging on Deák Ferenc tér. The square was filled with a huge mass of people. It seemed like some sort of demonstration was going on, which explained the inordinate number of policemen. Most of the people we passed were just standing about, trying to get a look or take video. Many were probably curious tourists. As for us, we just wanted to get back to the safety of our apartment. It got a little scary when we were trying to cross Karoly Krt, and something caused a throng of people to run in our direction. I had the sudden panicked thought that we were going to be run over by the stampede. Luckily, the crowd didn't progress too far before they stopped in the middle of the street and inched back toward the action. J. and I crossed the broad avenue, walked away from the crowds, and took roundabout small streets to get back to the apartment. The narrow lane to our lodgings was actually clogged with police cars! I was relieved to be back in the quiet of the apartment. We relaxed for the next couple of hours before venturing out again. By then, the crowds were gone and everything was back to normal. We bought food at the market for a quick dinner and went into the city again.
